When we speak of Balinese royalty, we would normally associate this with the Hinduism and indeed the puri temples we are accustom to here. However, in Denpasar, there is proof of a princess that married into the Madura kingdom and converted to Islam. Sadly, her faith led to tragedy following a grave misunderstanding upon her return to the island.
It is said that her original name was Gusti Ayu Made Rai, also known locally as Raden Ayu Pemecutan, a daughter of the King of Pemecutan. Her story is a sorrowful one, beginning with the princess being afflicted by ‘sakit kuning’ (jaundice), an illness that was difficult to cure in the past. In desperation, the King held a contest: if a woman could heal the princess, she would be adopted as his daughter and if a man succeeded, he would be wed to her.
Word of the contest soon spread and reached a king in Bangkalan Madura named Cakraningrat IV. Thanks to his treatment, the princess recovered, and Cakraningrat IV was wed to Raden Ayu Pemecutan. Following their marriage, she embraced Islam and was given the name and title, Raden Ayu Siti Khotijah.
Later, the princess returned to Bali, accompanied by 40 of Madura’s finest warriors, a jar, a dagger, and a tusuk konde (a treasured golden hairpin) entrusted by her husband. The King and the royal family warmly welcomed her, unaware of her conversion to Islam. While in Bali, she continued performing Islamic prayers, which, when noticed by palace officials, were mistaken for acts of black magic.
The King, overcome by fury, ordered her execution. The beautiful princess was then taken to a burial ground. However, the princess had already foreseen her fate.
“I have long sensed this would happen. Since this is the King’s command, then carry it out. And let it be known, I was merely praying, worshipping according to the Islamic faith — with no ill intent, let alone practising pengleakan,” she said to the official who would take her life.
Upon her execution, she declared that the fate of her body would determine her innocence: “End my life using this hairpin, tied with betel leaves, and bound with a thread of three colours: red, white, and black (tridatu). Then strike it into my chest. Should my body emit foul-smelling smoke upon my death, then I am a witch. But if the smoke smells fragrant, then build for me a sacred place known as a keramat, where I shall be buried” said Raden Ayu Siti Khotijah. Astonishingly, fragrant smoke rose from her body, and the King was left to grieve his terrible mistake.
Her grave lies in Pemecutan, West Denpasar. A signboard identifies it as “Keramat Agung Pemecutan Makam Raden Ayu Pemecutan Alias Hj. Raden Ayu Siti Khotijah.” Two days after the burial, a tree grew from the head of her grave, believed to have sprouted from the princess’s hair. Today, her sacred grave is venerated, particularly by pilgrims from Java. Open daily, visitors are advised to dress respectfully and bring cash for the entrance fee.
