Early Travels to the ‘Dutch East Indies’
Today’s travellers may feel envious of those who visited Bali back when it was ‘untouched’, but do not realise the difficulty of not only getting to the island but also the challenges once they arrived. Sake Santema, owner of antiques dealer Indies Gallery, explores early travels to Indonesia and Bali, complemented by prints and images

The Masks of Bali, feat. Prof. Dr. I Made Bandem and Bruce Carpenter | Episode 27
In this episode of The NOW! Bali Podcast, we welcome Prof. Dr. I Made Bandem and Bruce Carpenter, authors of ‘Masks of Bali: Between Heaven and Hell’, an epic 2-volume collection on Bali’s traditional masks – a historical publication set to define this field of art for generations to come. This episode is best watched

I Gusti Nyoman Darta: Following the Lines of Lempad
If you are a fanatic of Bali, you will be interested by the character of I Gusti Nyoman Darta. He had an early life typical of the feudal system of the days. Barely 5, he was entrusted by his father to one of the princes of Ubud, Tjokorde Ngurah Puri Saren. He took the mantle

Bali’s ‘Wayang Week’ and Stories of Time the Devourer
If there is an Indonesian form of art that is of international repute and calls to mind the notion of a “magic show”, this is undoubtedly the shadow play or puppet show theatre: the “wayang”. The trembling shadows of ancestral figures dancing on a white screen as they are shaped and unshaped by a flickering

The Culture of Balinese Cuisine
Balinese food is often over-simplified. In fact, most foods are. Reduced to the singular dish that is brought to our table. As we smell, bite and chew, our taste buds absorb the flavours and yes, “Delicious!” registers our brain, “Have another bite.” What each scrumptious bite doesn’t tell us, however, is that every herb and

What is Nyepi? Understanding Bali’s Day of Silence
How do Westerners open the New Year? With revelry. How do the Balinese open their own New Year? With a full day of silence, called Nyepi. But exactly what is Nyepi? It is the first day of the Saka calendar year and is also Bali’s day of silence. Understanding the Balinese Calendars Bali’s measure of

Offerings: Food for the Gods
Many of Bali’s top reputed restaurants might sell food of international standards; their diners might be local and international celebrities, ministers, singers and sports stars, but by Balinese standards, believe me, these restaurants don’t quite cut it. Even the ones listed in this magazine. Why is that you ask? Well, they only serve food to

The Healing Traditions of the Balian Usada
In Bali there is the traditional doctor known as the balian usada, whose knowledge is gained through the lontar manuscripts and the inherited teachings of predecessors. Still frequented by many Balinese, the practice of the balian deals with both the sekala and niskala worlds, the seen and unseen, and are the continuation of Bali’s ancient

The Cosmic Complexities of Balinese Love
In Bali, love and indeed sex are more than just about the relationship between two people. It is about the gods, the cosmos, the cycle of life. For most Westerners love oscillates between two poles: on one side there is the romantic meeting of two individuals, and on the other side, the sexual encounter of

Magedong-Gedongan: Ceremonies for the Incarnating Soul
One is not born in Bali the way one is born in most parts of the world: one reincarnates, and one does so in a very particular way. Let us give it a look, such as it is still known in popular lore. First the soul (atma), still hanging about in the world, has to

In Memoriam: Celebrating International Contemporary Art Icon, Ashley Bickerton
For more than three decades, Ashley Bickerton’s presence shone brightly on the international art stage. A courageous, rebellious artist, his genius imagination existed on the periphery of what was conceivably possible. Bickerton rose to incredible heights in contemporary art, positioning his voice as singular to the global audience. The most internationally renowned contemporary artist in

Yamaraja: Magical Drawings of the Bugbug Temple Festival
The Balinese are known for putting up extraordinary shows during their temple festivals. Most popular are the processions and dances that take place on these occasions. But there are other aspects that are no less extraordinary. One of them is the roughly 13-metre long drawing on the ground which is ceremoniously made in Bugbug every

Wayan Kun Adnyana’s Unique Mission Within the Development of Balinese Contemporary Art
A chorus of beautiful rhythmic black lines describes the violent, pulsating ocean whipped into life by tumultuous winds. A vast wooden sailing vessel encounters the might of the natural elements. It safely transports many; warriors and families in search of new horizons across the seas. The expanse of the boat’s structure is illustrated within a