Jean Couteau
MaSutasoma: A Balinese Theatre Performance of Epic Proportions Unfolds in Budakeling
An extraordinary event took place on 6 April 2024 in the village of Budakeling, the core village of the brahmana Buda of Bali: the performance, under the name of MaSutasoma, was a gambuh dance telling the Javanese story of Sutasoma, the most famous of the Javanese Boddhisatwas, which expounds the path toward Buddhist “Release” of the brahmana Budas
Siwa Ratri, The Ritual Wake For The Longest Night of the Year
The longest night of the year is a important ritual moment in the life of the Balinese. In the local lunar-solar Saka calendar, it falls on the 14th panglong lunar day of the seventh (Kapitu) month. Fully dedicated to the cult of Siwa, this night is called the Night of Siwa, or Siwa Ratri. The
A Question of Time : The Difference Between Balinese and Westerners
You can listen to this story through the NOW! Bali Podcast: Here is a story of Ni Luh Koncreng, in which the way the Balinese see, feel and interpret time is illustrated. You can guess, of course, it is quite different to how Westerners view the very same aspect. We are in the compound of
The Temple of the Murdered Man
People have misconceptions about Balinese religion. Many see it as strictly Hindu. It may be so in children’s school books, which emphasises classical Hindu-Indian cosmology, but this is a “fundamentalist” evolution. The Balinese may refer once in a while to Hindu gods, but the daily ritual life is dominated by the worship of ancestors of
Ngiring: Accompanied by the Gods
‘Ngiring: Accompanied by the Gods’, is Part One of a two-part article on trance in Bali by Jean Couteau. Make sure to read NOW! Bali’s September-October 2023 edition for Part Two. Balinese religion is a complicated thing. You have what the school books and the Parisada Hindu organisation teach you: The unity of the godly
I Gusti Nyoman Darta: Following the Lines of Lempad
If you are a fanatic of Bali, you will be interested by the character of I Gusti Nyoman Darta. He had an early life typical of the feudal system of the days. Barely 5, he was entrusted by his father to one of the princes of Ubud, Tjokorde Ngurah Puri Saren. He took the mantle
Bali’s ‘Wayang Week’ and Stories of Time the Devourer
If there is an Indonesian form of art that is of international repute and calls to mind the notion of a “magic show”, this is undoubtedly the shadow play or puppet show theatre: the “wayang”. The trembling shadows of ancestral figures dancing on a white screen as they are shaped and unshaped by a flickering
Ramadan, and the Upholding of Tolerance in Bali
The holy month of Ramadan begins on 23 March. So, it is a perfect occasion to ponder about the way religious tolerance functions (or mis-functions) in Bali. I am using these two words because it is part of conventional wisdom – or rather of conventional politics —to assess that religious tolerance is a given reality.
Offerings: Food for the Gods
Many of Bali’s top reputed restaurants might sell food of international standards; their diners might be local and international celebrities, ministers, singers and sports stars, but by Balinese standards, believe me, these restaurants don’t quite cut it. Even the ones listed in this magazine. Why is that you ask? Well, they only serve food to
The Cosmic Complexities of Balinese Love
In Bali, love and indeed sex are more than just about the relationship between two people. It is about the gods, the cosmos, the cycle of life. For most Westerners love oscillates between two poles: on one side there is the romantic meeting of two individuals, and on the other side, the sexual encounter of
Tumpek Kandang: The Holy Day for Animals
Tumpek Kandang is a day dedicated to Sang Hyang Rare Angon, the god of all cattle and livestock. On this day, domesticated animals on the island will receive great attention; the cows are washed in the river and dressed up like human beings, with special cone-shaped spirals made of coconut leaf placed on their horns.
Magedong-Gedongan: Ceremonies for the Incarnating Soul
One is not born in Bali the way one is born in most parts of the world: one reincarnates, and one does so in a very particular way. Let us give it a look, such as it is still known in popular lore. First the soul (atma), still hanging about in the world, has to
Yamaraja: Magical Drawings of the Bugbug Temple Festival
The Balinese are known for putting up extraordinary shows during their temple festivals. Most popular are the processions and dances that take place on these occasions. But there are other aspects that are no less extraordinary. One of them is the roughly 13-metre long drawing on the ground which is ceremoniously made in Bugbug every
