The Peeping Toms of Bali
The Jakarta Post of November 3rd brought interesting news: “Residents of the Angke Rusanawa low-cost apartment complex in West Jakarta were shocked by the discovery of a man’s body in the ceiling of an apartment early on Monday.” Residents allege the man died of an electric shock while trying to peep in on a newly
Bali’s Wild Side
I have been documenting Bali for 40 years now — writing this column for almost 25 years — and I am sick of trying to explain the irrational. People often ask me why the Balinese are always flailing about and pulling the heads off chickens and I always feel like answering ‘Because you’re a twit’. I
Jegog Bamboo
Bamboo is one commodity that plays an important role in balinese life, from being used to build a house, weaved into a roof or basket, used as the pole to make penjor – a special decoration erected in front of the house during galungan and kuningan holy celebrations – and also transformed into a set
The Big Odalan
It started off sunnily enough. A few of us were invited for the last day of a month long house Piodalan Mempedem Perdagingan Festival – a festival that encompassed the whole extended family as well as the entire village. This celebration was a big one – and the last time it happened was a very
Behind Closed Doors of Top Balinese Artist Studios
Personally, I’m always captivated by the topic of Balinese painters and their palettes. From the first time I visited a painter’s studio years ago, I have been floored by the variety of materials these artists use, and have also been seduced by the allure of their creative spaces. To me, looking into an artist’s studio
Century Old Ceremonies
We’re sure you already know that Balinese culture and beliefs date back centuries. Religion is inseparable from everyday life, from simple daily rituals to grand temple festivals. No opportunity is lost to worship their gods in an unending series of ceremonies; mantras are chanted endlessly. Barong Procession in Baturiti In Baturiti, one of Bali’s most
The Release of the Aborted Foetus’ Soul
One of the best ways to learn about different cultures is by looking at how they deal with death; i.e. how they dispose of people’s corpses and what status and attention they give, if any, to the latter’s soul. In Bali, death is dealt with in such a way so as not only to get
The Closing
Ngusaba Sambah may the biggest series of rite of passage ceremonies held by the community of Tenganan Dauh Tukad Village in the Karangasem Regency of East Bali. The month-long event, which consists of several unique ceremonies, including banana and pandan wars, is organised solely by the village members. These sacred ceremonies are meant to mark the
Riding The Bull– Bali Style
Have you ever been to a place where teams of tame buffaloes (kerbau pepadu) are dressed up like kings or lions and raced around a dirt track pulling highly decorative little carts? These carts bear jockeys. The brave jockeys stand up like heroes and push their charges to greater speeds. The less brave sit down
Balinese Dogs
Have you ever seen a Balinese dog? I am sure you must have. These small, ugly animals are everywhere. They lurk in every corner in groups of four or five, peering at you in defiance with their small beady eyes, their tails jigging in the air. If you are, like myself, a white-skinned Caucasian, they
An Evening at Pura Dalem Ubud
After finishing a photo shoot on the outskirts of Ubud one afternoon, I decided to pay a visit to the heart of the town. It was dark when I arrived and I was lacking in ideas for what to do apart from dinner when a boy approached me selling tickets to dance performances. Out of
Cendrawasih : Beauty of a bird of Paradise
I’ve watched the Cendrawasih dance several times now. Even though each performance features different dancers on a different stage, it is always captivating. The Cendrawasih dance is neither classical nor sacred in Bali; rather it is a relatively new dance with choreography inspired by classical dance routines. The last time I watched this dance was
Jean Couteau – Our Very Own Historian
It was early 2009 when I first met Jean Couteau at an editorial meeting. The Frenchman, who speaks Bahasa Indonesia fluently, arrived in white trousers and a long sleeved white shirt. He spoke extensively about Balinese traditions and cultures and how we should raise awareness of this rather than always the island’s sun, sea and
