Off the southeast coast of mainland Bali, one will find the conjoined island escapes of Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan, which we still consider to be underrated destinations on the Bali travel trail – even for residents!
Only 40-minutes by boat from the Sanur Harbour, what lies on the other side is total coastal relaxation. Yes, Lembongan and Ceningan possess the ultimate ‘castaway charm,’ a rustic island experience that’s been bolstered with just enough modern conveniences for constant comfort.
With Lembongan only 8 square kilometres and Ceningan 3.6 square kilometres, the two islands are dwarfed by the neighbouring Nusa Penida. But, for a long weekend, they are the perfect size: big enough to feel like you’ve got plenty to discover, small enough to feel like you can discover it all.
DAY 1
● Arrive by Boat
● Mangrove Tour
● The Seaweed Farms and Yellow Bridge
● Mahana Point, Nusa Ceningan
● Stay & Dine: ARNA Suites & Ocean Lounge
DAY 1
Arrive by Boat
The majority of boat services will arrive at approximately 9am, shoring up on the northern half of Lembongan, on Jungut Batu Beach, and passengers must cautiously step barefoot into the softly rolling swells and wade their way up to the beach. It’s an instant transition into island life: shoes off, toes in sand, sun on your neck.
The rustic arrival foreshadows the rest of the islands’ infrastructure, i.e. minimal. Scooters, pushbikes and pickups converted into shuttle buses are the main mode of transport, zipping up and down the dusty village roads. It’s all part of the charm, and for those confident enough to rent a scooter, riding (carefully) from one area to another invokes a real sense of freedom. Either way, the adventure has begun.
Mangrove Tour
Start off your island experience with some “jungle” exploration. Jungut Batu Beach runs northward until it meets the opening of an estuary, from which point the dense mangrove forest takes over. At the very end of Mangrove Beach, a cooperative by the name of Surya Mandiri offers tours through the narrow channels between these tangling estuarial plants. Head in unaccompanied on a standup paddle board or kayak for an adventure with friends; or rent a boat and guide to take you through. The best time is in-between tides, when the roots of the mangroves are visible and make for a more picturesque journey. There is a palpable stillness in these thickly forested channels — a soothing float under cocooning canopies and then out into the shallow and shining sea.
The Seaweed Farms and Yellow Bridge
Make your way towards the narrow channel that separates Lembongan from Nusa Ceningan, where you’ll see the iconic Yellow Bridge – a suspension bridge painted a vivid canary yellow, and one of the most photographed spots on either island. Pause here and look down into the channel below, where the tides squeeze through on the daily. Beneath the surface lie abundant seaweed farms, identified by the quadrants of dark green that shadow the seafloor. Every morning and afternoon the seaweed farmers trudge through the shallows to harvest their ocean crop, and when they return to shore, they haul baskets onto flatlands to dry under the sun. Visitors should take a moment to see the farms whilst they remain; though best at around 7am when the morning sun is low and cool, but worth a look at any time of day.
Mahana Point, Nusa Ceningan
It’s time to finally crossover to Nusa Ceningan, meaning a trip over the Yellow Bridge to find an exhilarating clifftop experience. At Mahana Point, a popular surf break on the island’s western edge, adrenaline junkies can take a leap of faith: cliff jumping into the deep blue! At one’s own risk of course, two heights are available — 10 metres and 5 metres — a real test of mettle but certainly a memorable experience. Sheltered just behind this headland is Secret Point Beach, one of the calmer sandy beachfronts of Ceningan, perfect for a breather after all that bravery.
Stay & Dine: ARNA Suites & Ocean Lounge
Experience luxury tent living at ARNA Suites, perched on the cliffs of Nusa Ceningan, overlooking the iconic Blue Lagoon. Home to 29 suites over three categories – Deluxe, Blue Lagoon, Oceanfront – ARNA Suites blurs the boundaries with nature, where luxurious, tropical interiors are complemented by coastal views and/or the surrounding gardens. This ‘wallless’ escape is the ultimate island hopping accommodation.
The connected ARNA Ocean Lounge is a destination in itself, said to boast one of the best sunset views on Nusa Ceningan. Here, an infinity pool, exclusive daybeds and a premium restaurant housed in a bamboo building invite for all-day lounging under the sun, to sunset cocktails and a refined dinner experience. (arnabali.com)
DAY 2
Sunrise on Jungut Batu Beach
Set your alarm! The west-facing Jungut Batu Beach runs the length of the island’s top half and is where you’ll find rows of relaxed beach clubs and rustic beach bars — but in the early hours, before they open, it belongs entirely to the morning. White Sand Beach, at the northern corner of the coastline, is graced with views of Mt. Agung standing tall across the waters, and there are few sights more majestic on Lembongan than that great volcano’s silhouette caught in the first light of the day.
Morning Snorkelling Cruise
It’s time to jump aboard the Utopia Catamaran for an epic 5-hour cruise around the island. The catamaran is essentially a floating, two-storey lounge, with 30 chilling spots to choose from, including hanging chairs, lounging nets, sofas and an open top deck to soak up the sunshine. The VIP vessel also houses a large bar that serves drinks (from coffees to cocktails) and a dining area where your onboard breakfast and lunch are served, both of which are included in the trip. There is also a clean, private bathroom.
On this morning cruise, you’ll be taken to the best snorkelling sites around Nusa Lembongan,
known for their coral reefs, tropical fish and turtle sightings, with premium snorkelling gear provided. In-between snorkelling and dining, you can enjoy onboard fun with paddleboards, floating beanbags and epic jumps into the sea from the top deck. Towels, life jackets and even underwater cameras are all available during your trip, so all you have to do is bring your swimsuit, sunscreen and personal essentials.
Utopia departs at 8.30am from Pantai Mahagiri, Nusa Lembongan, and returns to shore at 1.30pm, promising a morning of sun-filled exploration and relaxation. (utopiacatamaran.com)
Devil’s Tear
Devil’s Tears is the most striking rocky headland on the island, where thick swells heave towards the alcove, crashing into the rocks and exhaling sea spray into the air in dramatic fashion. It’s a ticketed tourist area, but well worth the entry — and if you can time your arrival for the late afternoon, come sunset it is quite a stunning sight to behold, especially for first timers. A great rule of thumb when it comes to Lembongan’s beaches and coastlines: note which direction they face. The west-facing shores bear the full force of the Indian Ocean, and millennia of exposure to those deep, rolling swells has shaped the dramatic cliff sides you see today. Devil’s Tears is the finest expression of that.
Side Quest: Gala Gala Underground House
If you’re in the mood for a quirky detour, Gala Gala Underground House is a short ride away. This unique destination is a manmade network of caves dug by a puppet master (a dalang, considered priestly), Mangku Dalang Made Byasa, who sought to create a place of meditation inspired by the great Hindu epic, the Mahabharata. It took him 15 years (1961–1976) to manually carve a network of caves across a 500 square metre area. It’s no headline attraction, but a fun and fascinating little sightseeing spot well worth an hour of your afternoon.
Dinner at Sandy Bay
Sitting right next to Devil’s Tears on the island’s west coast, Sandy Bay Beach Club is one of Lembongan’s most well-established dining destinations. The setting does much of the work: raw coastal scenery, the sound of swells rolling in from the Indian Ocean. It’s a great spot to take in the end of the day, with an al-fresco dining area opening up to a pool and beachfront view.
Whilst certainly a popular choice during the day, the evening atmosphere at Sandy Bay is equally enticing, promising the perfect winddown meal at the end of a long day. The food is international, with grazing dishes (tacos, ceviche, squid, yakitori, a solid charcuterie platter), salads and sides, and of course fresh seafood, including grilled fish and tiger prawns. Indonesian favourites, like nasi goreng and rendang, are listed alongside pastas and pizzas, imported steaks and a kids menu – speaking of which, a playground is tucked in alongside the beach for young ones. Happy hour runs twice daily (3–5pm and 9:30–10:30pm), making it an easy choice whether you’re stopping in for a sundowner or settling in for the evening. (sandybaylembongan.com)
Night Cap at The Howff
As most of the island shutdowns quite early, it’s important to have a late-night bar on the list – this is where The Howff comes in! Conceptualised by a Scot-gone-troppo, this drinking hole is certainly one-of-a-kind: an Edinburgh-esque dungeon bar aesthetic that hangs on the Nusa Lembongan coastline, where leather seats and brick walls open up to views of Jungut Batu Beach.
Found beneath The Deck Café & Bar, one of Lembongan’s most well-known eateries, this 30-seater speakeasy prides itself on its whisky, gin and wine selections, with a vast selection of single malts and crafts filling the shelves. The professionally-conceptualised signature cocktails are also a must try. Open from 5pm to midnight, The Howff is a spot that serves sunset cocktails with tapas just as well as some post-dinner digestifs. (thehowfflembongan.com).
Where to stay: Pramana Nusa Ceningan
DAY 3
Saunas and Sunshine at LAGO
Situated on Coconut Beach – a private little bay best known as the swimout point for the famous ‘Playgrounds’ surf break – LAGO is a destination offering many experiences, from ‘dawn to dusk.’
Start your final day at the beachfront café, dawn by Lago, where perfectly-brewed coffee, hot breakfast and house-made pastries are served under the palm trees. Once refuelled, head up to Sundeck by Lago to enjoy a morning of wellness and sunshine: soak in the panoramic sauna, take a dip in the clifftop plunge pool, and then relax on the sunbeds overlooking the epic Playgrounds surf break and Lembongan coastline. Near the surf is Pontoon by Lago, a floating oasis with a fully operational bar serving beers on tap, cocktails and more in the middle of the open waters – a must-visit if time permits! (IG: @lago.bali)
Farewell Lunch at The Deck
At the end of the trip, it’s time to take it all in – for that, there’s nowhere better than The Deck Café and Bar. This beach house-style eatery clings to the coastal cliffsides and boasts views across the full length of Jungut Batu Beach, where diners can watch the boats as they sail through the pristine, turquoise waters. Framed by colourful bougainvillea, it’s one of the island’s most picturesque locations.
Part of Batu Karang Lembongan Resort & Spa, The Deck’s food offerings are fresh and high quality, with breads baked in-house daily and fresh produce sourced from their own hydroponic gardens. For the ultimate island send off, why not opt for their coastal cuisine like their Waterfront Fish & Chips, Classic Ahi Tuna Poke Bowl, or Jimbaran-style Marinated Catch of the Day. You’ll find vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options. Don’t leave without trying their fresh Italian gelato! (thedecklembongan.com).
Departure
Return boat transfers are available midday and 4.30pm daily.
